Why Undone Updos Are Defining Modern Runway Hairstyles
Undone updos have become one of the most in-demand runway hairstyles, replacing ultra-sleek chignons with something softer, moodier and more lived-in. Inspired by the romantic volume of Gibson girl bouffants and filtered through a contemporary, grunge-leaning lens, these looks feel both nostalgic and completely current. Hair director and editorial hair styling expert Daniel Jianing describes the appeal as “elevated and beautiful, but with subtle elements that feel unexpected or slightly off,” as though polished glamour has slowly unravelled. That balance—polish versus disruption, romance versus irregularity—is what makes undone updos so versatile. With the right technique, they work for everything from a casual brunch to a black-tie event. The key difference from traditional updos is intention: every wisp, bend and flyaway is placed on purpose to create texture and movement, rather than a perfectly sealed, immovable shell of hair.
Prep Like a Pro: Building the Perfect Foundation
Any successful undone updos tutorial starts with smart prep. Texture is non-negotiable: you need grip, movement and a base that can handle backcombing without collapsing. For the Alix Higgins runway, Daniel Jianing began by misting hair with lightweight volumising and wave-enhancing products to create a workable foundation, then rough-dried to encourage natural bends. This step is crucial for editorial hair styling because it determines how easily you can sculpt volume later. Once hair is dry, apply a root-lifting spray or mousse, then backcomb in small sections at the crown and through the interior, focusing on areas where you want height or structure. Keep the surface relatively smooth while packing the volume underneath. The goal is not crisp, glossy perfection but an airy scaffold that feels touchable and lived-in, ready to be moulded into an updo without losing its softness.
Creating Runway-Ready Texture and Shape
To recreate the dimension seen in luxury runway hairstyles, think in terms of irregular shape rather than uniform curls. Daniel’s backstage team used a multi-attachment hot tool system in a deliberately unconventional way—treating a straightening attachment like a modern hot roller to pre-set bends and movement instead of flattening the hair. At home, you can mimic this by clamping random sections and twisting slightly as you glide the iron, leaving the ends imperfect. Alternate directions to avoid symmetry. Once the hair is set, break everything up with your fingers instead of a brush to keep the texture diffused and organic. For added softness, use a diffuser attachment to gently loosen the structure without blowing out the volume. The result should look like the hair has naturally fallen into shape over time—sculpted, but never rigid or overly done.
Pin, Loosen, Disturb: Step-by-Step Messy Updos How To
With texture prepped, you can build the undone updo. Start by loosely gathering hair at the nape, crown or slightly off-centre, depending on your face shape and outfit. Twist sections and pin them in place, leaving the ends poking out for an unfinished feel. Don’t aim for symmetry—embrace imbalance and negative space. Backcomb select strands before pinning to exaggerate the silhouette, then lightly tug at the roots to create extra lift and softness around the head. Next comes the most important step in any messy updos how to: deliberate disruption. Use your fingers to pull out fine pieces around the hairline, temples and nape, and gently break apart polished sections. Finish with a dry texturising spray or powder to add a matte, airy quality. If something looks too neat, rough it up until it feels slightly unpredictable, yet still intentional.
Customising Undone Updos for Different Hair Types and Occasions
The most editorial undone updos are tailored, not copy-pasted. Daniel Jianing’s runway approach avoided one standard style, instead letting each model’s hair length, texture and density influence the final result. If your hair is fine, focus on internal support: more backcombing, layered products and tighter pinning to hold shape while keeping the surface light and fluffy. For thick or naturally textured hair, work with your existing movement, loosely sculpting sections into deconstructed forms rather than forcing everything flat. For daywear, keep the silhouette lower and more relaxed, with extra face-framing pieces for ease. For evening, exaggerate the crown volume or add a Gibson girl-inspired bouffant feel for drama. Across all versions, the emotional tone stays consistent: elevated yet slightly unruly, as though you’ve just stepped off a runway rather than out of a traditional salon blowout.