Why the 90s Grungy Makeup Lip Is Back on the Red Carpet
The return of 90s grungy makeup is officially red-carpet approved, and Aimee Lou Wood’s recent BAFTA makeup look is proof. As the ultra-polished “clean girl” era fades, celebrities are embracing something moodier: smudged liner, lived-in shadow and lips that look sultry rather than pristine. Makeup artist Jackie Saundercock describes Aimee’s brief as “effortlessly cool… less ‘perfect beauty,’ more ‘free spirit but make it red carpet,” and that captures this dark lip trend perfectly. Instead of sharp lip lines and mirror-shine gloss, the new grunge lip feels controlled yet imperfect, like you’ve just come from a late-night gig. Paired with lighter, minimal skin and softly flushed cheeks, the focus shifts to depth and attitude. Think of this grungy lip tutorial as your blueprint for replacing minimalist gloss with something richer, sexier and just a little bit rebellious.
Prep the Canvas: Glossy Skin and Subtle Flush First
The secret to making a 90s grungy makeup look feel modern rather than heavy is contrast. Jackie Saundercock skipped grunge for Aimee Lou Wood’s base, instead creating what she calls “glossy expensive skin” – a luminous, hydrated finish that offsets the gritty eyes and defined lips. Start with a lightweight, glow-boosting foundation and blend until you can still see real skin peeking through. Aim for a glass-skin effect rather than full coverage. Next, layer cream or liquid blush on the high points of your cheeks, beginning with a soft matte tint before tapping a sheerer, shimmery formula over the top for a gentle sheen. This subtle, glossy flush keeps the BAFTA makeup look fresh and wearable, stopping the dark lip trend from feeling costume-like and ensuring the lips remain the star of the show.
Shape and Soften: The ‘90s Lip Liner Technique
A true 90s grungy makeup lip starts with liner. Saundercock calls a nude lip liner “the jewel in the crown of any ‘90s lip look,” and it’s easy to see why. Choose a nude shade that’s one to two tones deeper than your natural lip colour. Lightly sketch along your natural lip line, concentrating definition at the cupid’s bow and outer corners. For a grunge-inspired finish, avoid a harsh, crisp edge: once you’ve outlined, use a fingertip or a small brush to gently blur the line inwards, leaving the outer perimeter subtly diffused. This “intentionally blurred” effect creates that lived-in, rock-and-roll vibe. Fill in the lips slightly with the same liner to add staying power, but let some of the natural lip show through. You’re building a moody base, not a perfect, opaque lipstick block.
Layer Your Lip Colour: Aimee Lou Wood’s BAFTA Lip Combo
With the liner down, it’s time to recreate Aimee Lou Wood’s exact BAFTA makeup look. Saundercock reached for Armani Beauty’s Lip Power Long Wear Lipstick in shade 103, chosen for its muted, natural tone that still carries depth. Apply the lipstick directly from the bullet or with a brush, concentrating colour at the centre of the lips and pressing it outwards to meet the softened liner. The goal is a sultry, understated base that complements smudged eyes rather than competes with them. Next, add dimension with a sheer gloss. Aimee’s makeup artist used Prisma Glass Lip Gloss in 02 Candy Halo, tapping it onto the centre of the lips for cushiony shine. Because the gloss is lightweight and non-sticky, it enhances the dark lip trend without turning it into high-shine perfection, keeping everything softly grunge and wearable.
Finish the Grunge Mood: Eyes, Balance and Wear Tips
To complete your grungy lip tutorial, balance the mouth with eyes that feel rebellious but refined. Saundercock used smudged eyeliner and “lived-in” shadow, applying liquid eyeshadow across lids, lower lash line and waterline before tight-lining and adding mascara. The result is depth without rigidity, echoing the blurred lip. Keep brows natural and softly groomed to avoid overwhelming the face. If you’re wearing this look off the red carpet, try dialing the eye slightly down for daytime—lighter shadow, softer liner—but keep the defined, glossy lip intact. For longevity, blot your first lipstick layer with a tissue, reapply, then add gloss just before you head out. As it wears, embrace the fade; a slightly worn-down edge is part of the appeal. This look is all about controlled chaos, not immaculate symmetry.